How To Add A Gas Stove To Your Home

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Are you considering installing a natural gas range in your home?

I did it myself and I accept some bully practical advice for installing a natural gas stove in your home. I also had to add onto the existing natural gas supply line in my home to make this work.

Information technology's been quite an ambitious learning experience for me but it's also been a rewarding ane, as well.

Why? Because it was easier than I idea and I saved a wad of cash.

We switched out our old electric coil range with a natural gas stove. If you're thinking about doing the same or peradventure want to extend your existing natural gas lines to a new outdoor grill, for example, I invite you to go comfortable and heed my communication.

The same principles volition apply in dealing with cast iron piping. Put your common sense on overdrive and read on.

Part 1 – The Steps I Used To Install The Gas Range

Disclaimer: I am Non a licensed plumber and this is not a how-to website. I am simply sharing my experience with installing a gas range. Enquire advice from professionals before considering this type of project and add my applied feel for good measure out. If y'all have ANY reservations about attempting this type of project, telephone call a professional to handle it for you. This is Not a project to be taken lightly. Check with your homeowners' insurance carrier for details on this projection before attempting.

If you choose to follow the techniques, approaches and methods shown on this site, so you follow them at your ain risk. In no way will the publishers of this website be held liable for any injuries or damages, straight or consequential, incurred by any person who attempts to follow the examples shown herein.

The information in this article assumes that yous have natural gas previously available in your home.

#one – Enquiry brands and comparison shop.

Make sure you do your homework and shop the best brands out there.

#two – Pull out the old stove and measure the space for the newly chosen gas range.

Most stoves are 30 inches wide. Our erstwhile range was a drib-in model and then I needed my measurements to be accurate due to switching to a costless-standing range.

#3 – Retreat to headquarters (home), mull information technology over and make a determination (aka harass my wife into letting me take the stove I craved).

#4 – With measuring record and digital camera in hand, we went out and fabricated the purchase.

TIP: If the model you are purchasing is on the sales flooring I propose you accept measurements and accept photos of the range and where the gas connections are on the stove.

Be sure to ask about the gas connector and bore. As well ask what type of electrical connexion you will need to take available for the stove to operate on.

#5 – One of the first things I did was locate the nipple where I would be connecting the additional pipe and measured the outside diameter.

Cast iron pipe that is seven/eight″ outer bore equals i/2″ pipe in the shop, meaning that they but go by the inside bore. I took measurements from where information technology would connect all the way to where information technology would end up behind the stove.

#6 – I read upwards on the possibility of tapping into the existing gas line in my house.

I saw that if I was careful and followed code and common sense I could relieve myself a bundle.

I figured I saved somewhere between $250-$350 dollars based on conversations with a contractor and employees of Home Depot and Lowe'south. I spent but under $50 on materials including $20 on a new piping wrench.

Other supplies included: 2 elbows, 1 t-connect, 1 long piece of pipe and 3 short lengths (all cut to my measurements), cap, T2 pipe joint compound and the valve. I had the associate at Dwelling Depot cut to length all iii pieces.

He cutting them, reamed them and so threaded them, all on one machine. Information technology took near 10-15 minutes due to the constant interruptions from other customers and Depot associates asking this guy questions.

I obviously had 1 of the more experienced employees on site. That fabricated me feel adept about the advice I was given and confirmed what I had read on a couple of other websites.

#7 – I shut the gas off at the meter.

Once I had all of my supplies on hand and made an announcement to anybody in the house not to strike a match, etc., I shut off the gas at the meter on the exterior of the house. It only takes a pair of pliers to attain this task.

TIP: BE SURE TO LINE Upward THE HOLE ON THE Function Yous ARE TURNING WITH THE STATIONARY HOLE ON THE METER. THEN PUT A PADLOCK THROUGH It UNTIL You Accept COMPLETED THE JOB. You only need to plow information technology 1/4 of a turn. It'southward a ball valve so it will turn either way indefinitely. Simply line it upward and put a lock on information technology.

#8 – Adjacent, I pre-drilled 1 inch holes for the pipe in the floor behind the stove and through the floor joist for the 90 degree plough I had to make.

I also made a temporary brace between the floor joists for the unattended stop of the 90 inch pipe to rest on while I fabricated the connection.

In retrospect I should've waited to drill the hole through the joist until I had the pipe from the chief line connected and was ready for my adjacent motion through the joist. Or I couldv'e taken off about 3 inches from the xc inch pipe to accurately align it towards the pigsty through the floor joist for the pipe.

Why? Because by the time I was at the point of putting the pipe through the pigsty in the joist, I had added two ninety degree elbows (one from the existing gas line and 1 to turn towards the joist), thus calculation almost an inch+ per elbow due to the threads and the elbow itself.

The outcome was that I ended up re-drilling another hole adjacent to the originals. What can I say — We live and learn!

#9 – When I was finally ready to brainstorm, the Large moment was upon me. I eased the cap off of the nipple to begin

Nada herky-hasty here, folks. Nice and slow. In my case, it was a little tough to offset turning the cap due to the old joint compound only it soon gave way. Be sure to open some windows to let the balance gas escape.

It will smell for a little while but it presently dissipates. Feel free to take a brusk pause.

#ten – Joint chemical compound

was probably the single most important purchase. It acts as THE bonding amanuensis betwixt connections and prevents gas leaks from occurring.

I basically just "painted information technology" onto the male threads thick enough to not be able to see the threads and that's information technology. No gooping and layering. Information technology's not a cake!

I went from connection to connection, putting the "pipe dope" only on the male threads. I tightened each connexion firmly only didn't over do information technology so I wouldn't separate or crack a pipe. Hercules need not apply!

#xi – The last slice in the gas pipe installation puzzle was the gas valve.

Merely follow the installation directions on the package.

Part 2 – The Gas Leak Examination

This role of the job is EXTREMELY Of import. No shortcuts allowed here. When everything was completely continued:

#1 – I turned the gas back on at the meter and mixed a batter of half and half of dishwashing liquid and h2o in a small drinking glass per the Home Depot guy and what I had read on practice-it-yourself websites.

#two – I stirred information technology around and grabbed a rag.

#3 – I then proceeded to dab the rag in the glass and dabbed it onto each and every connection looking for bubbles.

#four – You MUST give a 360 degree look on each connection. Otherwise, y'all're rolling the dice with your life and your loved ones.

#five – If you don't see Whatsoever bubbles forming, you're gilt. Requite THE BUBBLES TIME TO FORM. The bubbles may not form correct abroad so accept your time with this step…please!!!

#6 – Then expect a day, or 2 for the articulation compound to cure and get back and cleanse each joint with clear water. This will foreclose the compound from corroding over time. We received a rebate from our local gas visitor – bank check to see if there are any available where you live.

Role 3 – Preventing Problems With Combustion Equipment

Utilize a properly sized range hood fan if you use a gas range.

All kitchens should have exhaust ventilation to remove odors and excess moisture associated with cooking. While at that place are various ventilation strategies for kitchens, a range hood is the near mutual. When using a gas range, a range hood straight vented to the outside should be used to capture the combustion products. These range hoods should be sized correctly. For a typical kitchen range the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and the Home Ventilation Plant (HVI) recommend 100 cfm. Larger fans may need to have makeup air provided to avoid excessively depressurizing the house, causing backdrafting or other problems.

After installation of combustion and/or ventilation equipment, combustion equipment should be tested to be sure that information technology functions properly.

Information technology is important that your installer conducts a worst-case depressurization test. This combustion prophylactic test determines if any non-sealed combustion appliances will backdraft or spill combustion products into the living space. Tell your installer this examination should use an established process such equally Appendix D of the International Fuel and Gas Lawmaking or ASTM E1998 "Guide for Assessing Backdrafting and Spillage from Vented Combustion Appliances".
— the EPA on Indoor Air Quality in Homes/Residences

Resources: Hammerzone and DIY Network

I started as a habitation-stalker… visiting make new homes under construction in the neighborhoods near my house. That inspired me to write about dwelling building and home renovation projects — chronicling homes during dissimilar phases of construction from a consumer'southward betoken-of-view. Basically, the tips you'll find in my articles are a collection of checklists for what I think should (and should not) become into edifice or remodeling a quality dwelling.

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